Sociable

Saturday, October 10, 2009

Saya Mouride



The word Mouride in Indonesia means student. When I heard the word the first time in this country, it was not new to me. It comes from the Arabic word murīd (literally "one who desires"), a term used generally in Sufism to designate a disciple of a spiritual guide. I first heard the word Mouride in Senegal where it is the name of the largest Muslim Brotherhood in the country.

The brotherhood was founded in 1883 by Cheick Amadou Bamba, a “poem writing mystic” whose disciples believed him to be a "renewer" (mujaddid in Arabic) of Islam. In Senegal, you see pictures of Amadou Bamba painted everywhere, like that of Che Guevara in Latin America. His image is based on the sole remaining picture of him taken in 1913, wearing white robes with a piece of cloth draped in front of face exposing only his eyes.

My friend Mokthar, who is a Mouride, told me the legendary story of Amadou Bamba on his forced voyage into exile to Gabon by the French for fear of sparking a rebellion against their occupation. In an act of defiance against his French jailers who prohibited him from praying, he broke out of his chains and jumped into the ocean from the ship. He unfurled a prayer rug on the water and began to pray. When he lifted his head from the prayer rug floating on the water, he had dirt on his forehead.



The image of Mouridism is also linked to the colorfully dressed Baye Falls with long dreadlocks chanting and begging for money in the streets and villages throughout Senegal. The Baye Falls are a subsect of the Mourides who are followers of Ibra Fall, one of the first disciples of Amadou Bamba. A believer in hard work as a way of praising God, Baye Falls are given a dispensation on the Muslim requirements of daily prayer and fasting during Ramadan by the Mouride Caliph, who prays for the Baye Falls. In return give him all that they earn and the Caliph takes responsibility for their well being.


However a recent article discusses how a group of Mourides attacked the Senegalese newspaper Walf Fadjri for running an article that claimed that the Mouride leader was supporting the Senegalese President in return for donations. The group carried iron bars and wooden clubs and destroyed the office. The current Caliph of the Mourides, Cheick Mouhamoudou Lamine Bara Mbacké has renounced the attacks and called on his followers to remember the non-violent and peace ways of Amadou Bamba.



Youssou Ndour’s Song entitled, Ibra Fall, Founder of the Baye Falls



Reference Links:
Industrious Senegal Muslims Run a 'Vatican' By NORIMITSU ONISHI, New York Times Published: May 2, 2002.

"In Harlem's Fabric, Bright Threads of Senegal". New York Times.  SUSAN SACHS, 28 July 2003.

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

15 Seconds of Fame in Indonesia



This is a clip from my TV debut in Indonesia. It's not Letterman but it is one of the most popular shows in Indonesia. The show is called The Master and it's best described as an American Idol type show for magicians. Through a friend who is the manager for one of the magicians, I ended up sitting in the front row. I've waited for months to put this clip up on the internet because of course I think I look ridiculous. Let me rephrase. I know I look ridiculous. Let's just hope these few seconds don't count against my 15 minutes of fame.

If you don't want to watch the whole thing, my best shots are at:
2:25
4:36
4:57
6:16
6:31-6:41 (Most ridiculous)
8:11-8:20 (Ben Blom makes an appearance)







Monday, October 5, 2009

Peace Corps comes to Indonesia and Pinworms Revisited

When I arrived in Indonesia in January, I met a consultant working for the USAID contractor, DAI. After talking  for a few minutes we realized that we both served as Peace Corps volunteers in Senegal and that his wife was a volunteer in Mauritania. Even though we had served many years apart, he quickly invited me to a Peace Corps party at his house which was attended by the current US Ambassador to Indonesia, Cameron Hume, who was a Peace Corps volunteer in Libya in 1968. At the party, the Ambassador spoke to the group and said that Secretary of State Hillary Clinton, who had just visited Indonesia, had really pressed the President of Indonesia to bring the Peace Corps back to Indonesia. The plan was to have Peace Corps set up by the time President Obama visits the country in November.


At the party I met a few former volunteers and we became friends and subsequently went to a few dinner parties together. No matter how hard we tried not to, the topic of Peace Corps always came up at the dinner table at least for a little while. For those of us that were volunteers in Africa, we joked about all the embarrassing sicknesses we got. Below is a letter I wrote to my friends when I returned to Senegal after a vacation back to the US in the summer of 2004.

09/09/04 "A Rough Month Back"

After a month of vacation in the US , I was greeted by the Peace Corps doctor saying "You might want to consider putting adhesive tape on your rectum. Pin worms like to migrate to this area during your sleep to lay
eggs."

What had happened to my life? How do you get pin worms? The doctor quickly explained that you get them from ingesting fecal matter. Why me? An already emaciated American living in Africa being robbed of vital
calories and vitamins I need to survive by overzealous parasites who have migrated through my intestines to spawn offspring in my rectum. The pin worms, which had gone unnoticed for months, "flared up" while I was
in the US because for the first time in a year and a half, I was eating a well balanced diet that consisted of something a bit more than plain white rice and boiled fish.

"Don't worry, it's nothing medication can't cure." said the doctor. I still kept my fingers crossed as the guy working at the pharmacy gave me a box of pills called Vermox.


I have been back in Senegal for only a month and not only have I been diagnosed with parasites, I got so sick the doctors were worried I had Malaria. Having a 103 degree fever when it is 100 degrees in the shade and you are shivering from cold has to be one of the worst experiences life can offer. The US, good food, nice houses, baseball games, and electricity all seemed like a distant memory as I laid on my death bed. Fortunately I didn't have Malaria and I am once again back in good health.

For all those thinking about joining the Peace Corps, it's not all fun and games.

It was great catching up with all of you guys while I was in the US. You made my trip really incredible. I'd love to hear how the rest of the summer turned out.

Peace Jeff

I also have reception on my cell phone so you can call me in my village at (221) 515-2601. No running water or electricity but I do have a cell phone. Strange world we live in.

BP 39 Toubacouta par Kaolack
Senegal
, West Africa
Par Avion